Saturday, February 1, 2025

Funchal Bits and Pieces Part One

 There are times when I think all of us have a desire to seek justice. The crazy driver trying to pass you on curves and then cutting you off, you want to see him pulled over by the cops and just give him a smiling wave. Well yesterday such a fantasy took place. I had been out on the balcony admiring the park and reveling in the quiet when one of the little motorcycles without a muffler began roaring up and down the road next to the park as he popped wheelies and revved his engine. We went our for our second walk shortly thereafter and sure enough there he was racing down the road next to the building and going through pedestrian walkways with wild abandon. He zoomed around the fountain for another pass and to our utter joy we saw him pulled over by a motorcycle policeman. You should have seen the other walkers giving thumbs up to the officer and I shouted out, Bravo!  The kid, to our immense pleasure, did not look very happy!


I eat very little meat since we favor fish and vegetables. But when I do eat meat, I consume the five major meat groups, lamb, partridge, goat, rabbit and roast suckling pig!  I’ve had all five on the island and each was better than the other. The first two were grilled, the second two in a fabulous stew and the pig - my goodness, the pig! Sunday lunch found us wandering on small streets and we found a place with pictures of Suckling Pig. We asked it they had it that day and the answer was "of course," so we settled into a lovely courtyard.  We were quickly brought a plate of olives, two small glasses of dry Madeira wine, and menus. We noticed that the people next to us had ordered the suckling pig and when it was brought to their table we just assumed that two of them had ordered the same thing. When we found out that it was only for one, we made sure to share the meal.  It was delicious! The skin was the color of rich Corinthian leather and cracked at the wack of the back of a spoon, the flesh was moist and falling off the bone.  Truly one of the best Sunday Lunches ever!


Coffee culture is alive and well here and even more intense than we’ve seen in other countries. There are cafes every twenty feet ranging from huge outside tented areas to little five person walk-in bars. They seem to be packed at all hours of the day and sometimes we’ll notice that they are having cake and coffee at 6 or 7 pm, just when we are thinking about dinner. Most places charge less than one euro for a coffee, but other high-end sit down places will find you paying 3 or 4 euros for just a plain little cup, nothing fancy. We do not frequent those spots but instead love to try little places. After two weeks going to the same place every morning after our run/walk, we are now known and they just get the order going since it is always the same. Nice to be a local!


We have done many of the tourist things and for the most part enjoyed them. Taking the Teleférico up to the Monte Mountain and gardens was fun. Spending two hours in the Botanical Gardens was another great adventure. Two concerts in one week has left me exhausted not to mention walking past at least five museums and countless must-see churches (which we did not).


The food here has been universally wonderful, in stark contrast to our time last year in Ponta Delgada. The difference is that they actually grow a lot of things on this island and the waters are much warmer meaning far more availability and variety of fresh fish. We have eaten in hole-in-the-wall places where a wonderful lunch was under ten euros and we’ve been to some far more expensive places too. What they all have in common is a deep appreciation for good quality fresh food, prepared with a minimum amount of fussiness and served with pride.


More later,  Cindy and William


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