This is a really complex country. It is still a tale of the haves and have nots. The contrast from the wine farms in Stellenbosch to the townships in Cape Town is stark and sad. In many ways the legacy of Apartheid lingers like a festering cancer and it seems to be spreading. The government of this country is so corrupt and self-centered, resulting in a complete breakdown in many of the social systems that were supposed to provide for those still struggling with under-education and unemployment.
Drugs seem to be a big problem here - especially meth - everyone tells us not to be on the streets after dark, and this is in the downtown core. The other night we walked across the street to a little Italian place that has great food and a wonderful vibe. As we were approaching the entrance a guy came up to us demanding money for him and his sister since they were hungry. He was really aggressive and loud; he didn't touch us or anything but he was in our face and it wasn't pleasant. So our options are taxis, even for short trips, or the hotel restaurants at night which is a shame since this is such a beautiful city. On my morning walk I go past the Salvation Army Shelter and the side street is always littered with hypo needles indicating to me that there is an issue with other drugs. Luckily our hotel has a shuttle that takes us back and forth to the waterfront shops and restaurants. During the day it is a most pleasant walk; at night absolutely not advised.
On a more pleasant note, I have to comment yet again on how wonderful the people are in all of our interactions. If you go someplace twice, you are family and welcomed as such. Yesterday we did some shopping and instead of change they give you a little toy in a packet. We stopped for coffee and were looking at these packets to see what they were when our waitress came over and said "oh, those are Stikeez." She said they were little things that you stick to the walls or refrigerator and that her daughter loved them. Naturally, we handed her two of them and you would have thought we were dispensing diamonds. The smiles and thank yous and the touching - they do a lot of touching - were just a delight.
We went to the Cape Town Opera last night for a performance of Carmen. It was billed as a Flamenco Performance, but we didn't see that much dancing. However the singing and acting were just superb. It was a majority black cast as you might expect in South Africa and we enjoyed all three hours of the opera. One thing I don't understand is how you build an opera house without a middle aisle. We were in the cheap nosebleed section, the only tickets we could get at the last minute, and there were 53 seats per row, which means that someone with a middle seat coming after those of us on the aisle - and there were a lot of those since there were two intermissions - has to get by 25 or so people. Aside from the inconvenience, what happens in a fire or earthquake when all these folks have to get out via two small exit ways? Aside from that, it is a great hall and from our vantage point high up in the lobby of the second balcony, we could watch everyone lining up for drinks before and at the two intervals. I've never seen so much sparkling wine being tossed back, truly amazing and a tribute to this marvelous people.
Our plan had been to grab a taxi right after the performance and head to a highly recommended Tapa bar, which we thought would be appropriate after Carmen. We got out there a bit after nine since this performance started at six, but there were no taxis in sight. In fact there were no cars in sight. The streets and sidewalks were completely deserted, well lighted, but still spookily empty with not a pedestrian or vehicle in sight. We walked briskly the four blocks back to our hotel and decided it was too late to go to the tapa bar which closed at 10:30. We had a post opera snack at the hotel (I love saying post opera) and asked why the streets were deserted and were told that the clubs don't open until 11 pm so everyone is at home getting ready. What a city.
Today is the 30th of October and two days ago the big mall at the waterfront was completely decorated for Christmas! When I say completely, I mean completely: trees, hanging decorations everywhere, shop windows and yes, muzak with the old standards. Now Christmas is my least favorite holiday, always has been, but the onslaught of this forced merriment in October is just maddening.
We leave at the crack of dawn tomorrow for our safari. The flight is 3.5 hours and lands in a little Air Force Base somewhere near our campgrounds. The weather here has been delightful with sun and sea breezes but it will all change tomorrow. The forecast is for 100-degree weather with no breeze at all. Dreading the heat and bugs. Started my malaria pills last night and it upset my system something fierce, no sleep and stomach and headaches. Hope that was just because it was new to the system but we'll see. Our camp is in the wilderness and I'm hoping there is no TV, Internet or even radio. I'm sick of listening to and reading about the elections. Goodbye beautiful Cape Town and hello bush!
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