Sunday, October 14, 2012

The Lakes of Northern Italy


Departing Bergamo turned out to be the most difficult part of our journey to Lago d’Orta.  Getting directions from a person in Italy has many challenges.  You can be sure that whomever you ask does not have the latest information on road closures, traffic conditions, diversions due to construction or even a sense of which direction you should take to get to your requested city. Instead, you can only be sure that they will be confident and self-assured in giving you directions, regardless of whether they know what they are doing or not.  Thus our frustration in departing beautiful Bergamo.

Once we drove around the entire perimeter of the city, Cindy finally noticed a sign that took us in the direction we wanted.  I had decided to take the “blue” roads on the map, toll free, as opposed to the “green” fast roads with tolls. I am stupid!  We have lived in Italy, we have driven in Italy and we - I - should know better, as Cindy reminded me when we hit our twenty-fifth roundabout in six kilometers.  (From CCE:  to be fair, I told him multiple times before we left Bergamo that back roads were not a good idea.  Smirk.  But I did not insist, so off we went.)  We were behind enormous trucks almost the entire time, thus taking away the views I had thought we would have on the smaller roads.  Instead of taking less than two hours it took more than three and only the last twenty minutes were fun driving with beautiful views.

When we finally reached our hotel on the lake in downtown Pettenenasco I was weary and couldn’t wait to change and walk around the lake.  The weather was very cool and sunless, a condition that would continue every day of our stay, but we enjoyed the peace and quiet of the lake and the glorious fresh air for which these lakes are known.  Upon our return we had a Campari Corretto, Campari on the rocks and procecco, a lovely sparkling wine.  Most refreshing and perfect for our pre-nap apperitivi.

Our dinner that night in the hotel was very disappointing.  We had a lovely table overlooking the lake and the menu held great promise, but the food was tired, over treated and over thought.  They were trying to be cute instead of focusing on the simple preparations that have made Italian cuisine so wonderful for so long.  We ended the evening sitting on our balcony enjoying the foggy night over glasses of Vecchia Romagna.

For the next several days we had pretty much the same routine, up by nine, walking and running around the lake, breakfast just before they closed at ten and then back out to explore the little city and the large lake.  It was glorious, tranquil and refreshing.  Our dear friends Bob and Mary, who work in Milan, joined us for the last two nights and we found a great little pizzeria/restaurant which did things right and we had great meals with good wines at great prices.  It was a ma and pa operation where ma waited on the customers and pa made all the food, especially the great pizzas, and at the end of the dinner she came around with complimentary glasses of Limoncello and a plate of cookies.  On our second night she just delivered the bottle and left it with us so as to save her time on any refills!

We are now at the Sheraton Malpensa (airport) and tomorrow we depart for Athens to pick up the cruise.  It has been a lovely vacation and we are well rested and ready for the next half of our vacation from retirement.  Here are a few photos from the lake.  Ciao, Cindy and William


Lakefront Pheasant

Town Church and Tower

Fanciful Lakeside Sculpture


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