Sunday, January 6, 2019

The Concorde

The Concorde
In 1970 I was in England for the first time arranging sites for student teachers at British Primary schools. I was in the play area at a school in Bournemouth talking with some of the teachers and children when my eye was drawn upwards by the sound of an airplane. It was like nothing I had ever seen before, sleek, delta-winged, small for a commercial jet and large for a military jet. I had no idea what it was and neither did any of the teachers with me. One of the students however not only knew what it was, but where it was going. “It’s the new Concorde”, he said, “it’s on test runs out of Filton”. I never asked how this nine year old knew this but that day I was determined to find out all I could about this plane and to ride it as soon as possible.
What I didn’t know was that there were only two of them at the time, one French, one British and that they would be undergoing intensive tests for the next six years before the first commercial flights in 1976. These first flights went to locations other than the USA since we had lost the race and scrapped our Super Sonic Transport (SST) program and we were not keen on letting the winners come to our shores. It would take another year for the politics of change to allow the first commercial flights to the USA but the price tag for such trips was well beyond my --and most everyone else’s travel budget.
Twenty eight years later the opportunity to fly the Concorde from New York to London presented itself and I took it! The night before the flight Cindy and I stayed at a hotel very close to Kennedy Airport so that we would not be rushed for the 0845 departure of British Air flight 002, JFK/LHR. I thought that evening as I was lying in bed that perhaps I would be disappointed in the flight since I had hyped myself up so much for this experience. I worried a bit about feeling claustrophobic in the small cabin; I worried about foolish little things that crept into my brain moments before sleep.
The next morning I was up with the sun, which isn’t hard to do on December the 7th. The day was clear and bright and I was as giddy as a child at Christmas. Cindy tells me that I had a smile on my face from the minute I woke up until we arrived at the airport. I know I was excited and I remember seeing the Concorde sitting at the gate as we approached British Air on the overpass and I could hardly believe that we were only 90 minutes from takeoff.
Check-in at the special Concorde area was as I would expect for a First Class cabin. Very professional, organized and, well, it was fun! The woman ahead of us had on a full-length sable coat and checked in nine Louis Vuitton bags, one of which was a hat bag. I haven’t seen hat bags in years, especially one
by Louis Vuitton. We were given our boarding passes for the Concorde flight and our connecting flights to Frankfurt, along with directions to the Concorde Lounge. As we were heading for the lounge Cindy said that she didn’t think we were sitting together. I assured her, as only a very experienced traveler can, that of course we were sitting together, that I had made the reservations months ago and had requested row 11 so that we could be right in front of the Mach meter and told her to relax. She then reminded me of the alphabet and said that it seemed strange to her that a plane with only four seats in a row would have 11B next to 11C. Of course she was right! We were supposed to have seats 11 C/D so I brought this to the attention of the hostess in the Concorde lounge who checked the computer and found that in fact someone was already in seat 11D but she would do what she could to fix the situation and ushered us into the lounge. There another hostess was taking winter coats from passengers to store them on the Concorde for delivery at the door when departing in London. A nice touch given the limited storage space on the plane. Our carry-on luggage was sized and approved. Many passengers had their carry-on luggage tagged and checked since it was too big for the plane’s overhead compartments.
The Lounge was already filled with other Concorde passengers, mostly businessmen who were reading papers, working the phones and playing with computers. There were about fifteen couples that seemed to be going on holiday and they were grazing at the breakfast bar, which was plentiful. It was now 0800 and since on one was drinking I resisted the temptation to have a glass of something. I sat down with a glass of juice for Cindy and water for me and watched as Lord Andrew Lloyd-Weber sat next to us with his wife. I was tempted to ask him how Julian was doing but decided that I would respect his privacy since he was respecting mine. I called my Dad to thank him for preserving democracy, a ritual I perform on Pearl Harbor Day and D-Day. The hostess came over with our boarding passes indicating seats 11 C/D and soon it was time to begin the boarding process.
We were screened, x-rayed and patted down and checked for bomb residue before allowed onto the plane, a precaution that I most definitely supported. We could not see the plane from the boarding area, which disappointed me, but I had been looking at enough pictures of it and had seen two of them as we landed the day before. Entering the plane I could certainly see why they were so keen to take coats and large baggage. It is a small plane. It has about six feet of headroom and the width is only about seven feet. It is very tastefully decorated with shades of gray and silver. The seats are rounded on the top for better visibility and are very comfortable with their combination of leather and cloth. We were at the bulkhead and had foam pillows for our feet, other seats had small foot rests on the seats ahead of them to allow you to adjust your feet and legs during flight. Our tray tables were really well
designed. You could unfold them in three stages allowing for a drinks tray, a writing tablet and a dining tray. Lots of room, comparatively, on the bulkhead. The real reason for wanting those seats however is the fact that the digital readout of Mach, altitude, temperature and distance to destination is on the bulkhead screen, and I wanted to be very sure that I had a good view.
In the seat pocket we each had headphones, with soft leather ear cups, in flight magazine and a leather folder that contained our menu, wine list, stationery pad, official Concorde Pen, leather note pad, Concorde Flight Certificate and Concorde fact book. Flight attendants came by to make sure we were all comfy and secure, took our drink order for after takeoff and gave us pillows and wool blankets if desired. At exactly 0845 we pushed back from the gate and began our journey. The Captain came on to welcome us and tell us our flight information and assure us that we would have a smooth and fast flight to London. We taxied out and had to wait a moment next to a 747-400, which looked enormous. The windows on the Concorde are very small, almost like portholes on a small boat so if you are on the aisle you need to lean very close to your neighbor to see anything. Fortunately Cindy is a very good sharer and we had no difficulty.
0905 and we are lined up on runway 22R and accelerating. The Machmeter was not yet on but the Captain had told us that the four afterburners would kick in somewhere between 75 and 80mph and our V1 speed (committed for flight) would be 185mph, and V2 speed which is wheels up would be 225mph. Almost immediately after takeoff we made a sharp bank to the right for noise control and began to climb. At +5min into the flight we were already at 11,000 ft and traveling 570mph or Mach.72 and the afterburners were turned off. We made one more turn towards the ocean and continued our climb to 25,000 feet and Mach .95 awaiting permission from Air Traffic Control to break the speed barrier. The Concorde is only allowed to do this when flying over water or deserts in order to minimize any damage or noise problems with civilian populations.
The Captain came on and told us that they would soon be receiving permission to break the sound barrier and he told us exactly what to expect. He said that first the outer two engines afterburners would be restarted followed by the two inner engines and that we would perhaps feel a bit of a ‘nudge’ as each set is ignited. He also told us some details that would bore most but had me intrigued. The whole process of having to transfer fuel from
the forward tanks to the aft tanks prior to going supersonic was something I had never thought about. At +10mins into the flight ATC gave permission to go supersonic and we felt the two nudges and the Machmeter jumped to Mach 1 and we were at 28,500 feet. For the next five minutes we stayed at Mach 1.1 and climbed to 34,000 feet at which point the flight attendants began their service by presenting each of us with the drinks we had ordered. We had Dom Perignon 1990 and our own little one-ounce pot of buluga caviar complete with ivory spoon, lemon wedge and itty-bitty bread slices. This I think was the perfect moment, sitting next to my honey, traveling faster than the speed of sound and enjoying some of my favorite food groups. It was heavenly!!
We continued to climb and gain speed and the champagne continued to flow. At +28 minutes into the flight we were at Mach 1.96 and 50,000 feet. The outside temperature of –68C while the temperature on the nose of the Concorde was +100C, or boiling. This is why they have very little problem with corrosion since all moisture is boiled away on every flight. At +29 minutes into the flight we hit Mach 2 and leveled off at 52,000 feet so that the food service could begin in earnest and my oh my was it earnest.
The Brunch menu had us starting with wonderfully fresh fruit plates and warm rolls, banana and blueberry breads. Now what wine do you think would go with this course? If you said a 1991 Corton-Charlemgne Domaine Bonneau De Matray go to the head of the class! This is a classic French Chardonnay that Californians can only dream of. It was delightful and I truly think the second glass was even better.
We then had a choice of Entrées and Cindy choose the Maine Lobster and Cantaloupe melon with an apple, walnut, celery and sour cream salad while I opted for the lamb cutlets with minted gravy, rosemary and garlic mashed potatoes and sugar snap peas. This was not your normal airline food and it was prepared and presented with a great deal of care. Cindy stayed with the luscious white wine while I went right to the Charmes-Chambertain 1990, Domaine Taupenot-Merme, a wonderfully mature Burgundy Pinot Noir. Goodness it was tasty.
The cheese course consisted of Stilton and Double Gloucester, as you might expect on BA, and a very nice Chaumes with more fresh fruit. We both stayed with the Charmes-Chambertain rather than the Dows 1978 Reserve Tawny Port, although as I write I can’t for the life of me figure out why I
didn’t at least try the Port. Oh, I remember, I was told that I could now go up the cockpit and with an offer like that, I would refuse almost anything else. I peeked at the Machmeter and found that we were still at Mach 2 and an altitude of 58,500 feet. I realized that we were flying at the very edge of the Stratosphere, high above any weather, which accounts for the incredibly smooth flight. Here you can see the edge of space and the deep, deep indigo that goes beyond our atmosphere. Some said you could see the curvature of the earth, but I did not detect this nor did Cindy, possibly due to the heavy cloud cover below.
The first thing that amazed me about the cockpit was the ancient technology. This was really early 1970’s stuff; the kind of thing you still find in DC-10’s which were built around the same time as the Concorde. There was a check pilot in the jump seat and he was very gracious with his time and gave me all the information I requested and then some. He showed me the three inch gap between electrical panel, the only place he said where you can see the expansion and contraction that takes place on the Concorde. On the ground there is no gap between these panels! I asked him about the nose, which drops on take off and landing and is flush with the rest of the fuselage during flight. He explained that with a Delta wing the angles of attack are rather great, 14 degrees, and if the nose did not come down 12.5 degrees then there would be no visibility from the cockpit. He also explained that with a Delta wing there was no need for flaps, they landed in ground effect on a cushion of air beneath the surface of the wings at a reasonable 170-mph. I asked a lot of questions about flight characteristics at supersonic speeds and other pilot stuff that I found interesting. I did find out that the cabin pressure was kept at the same pressure you would experience at 5,500 feet, which is lower than most other jet aircraft and accounted for the lack of ear popping so common on other flights. I asked why they had never upgraded the Concorde to include new avionics and electronics and was told that if they did that they would have to recertify the plane and that would take years and lots and lots of money.
I don’t know how long I was up there, but I was told that they had to prepare for landing and that I should return to my seat, which I did just in time for a pre-landing glass of Dom Perignon. The flight attendants had given us our Concorde gift, which was a leather bound daytimer with maps of the New York and London subway systems, nice touch. In the English twilight we had a lovely view of London and flew directly over the Thames affording us a view of Big Ben, the West End, Hyde Park and other London landmarks. We touched down at exactly 1727 local time for an elapsed flight time of 3 hours and 19 minutes.
The flight to Frankfurt on an Airbus 300 was rather anticlimactic but gave me a bit of time to think about our Concorde flight and the entire process of flying the Atlantic. There is something wrong with the progress or lack thereof that we have made in the past twenty years. It now takes longer to fly across the Atlantic in two engines, fuel efficient, small and uncomfortable jets then it did ten years ago when only three and four engine jets, that were big and comfortable, flew the routes. Why did we not improve on the Concorde? Why did we not make fly supersonic the only way to cross large oceans? I’m sure the answer is involved with politics and economics but that doesn’t make it any less sad that we have allowed a technology to go undeveloped. The remaining 13 Concordes in service today will most likely be out of service by the year 2005 leaving a great record of service and speed that will surely be missed by folks like me. In the unlikely event that I might forget this trip, Cindy, during my absence while visiting the cockpit, purchased silver Concorde cufflinks, which she presented to me a week later on my birthday on the QE2. While I’m not absolutely sure, I do think that they make me stand straighter, look richer and feel like a million bucks!

Thursday, January 3, 2019

Brussels Odds and Ends

I spent four days in a museum yesterday afternoon! This was an immense space, ten floors in a Belle Epoch building with a soaring atrium so large that buzzards were circling overhead waiting to pick off those without the strength to find an exit. There were remnants of tour groups that had been separated from their leaders weeks ago. There were also lots of pictures hanging everywhere. (twenty thousand plus and we saw them all!)

The Royal Museum of Fine Arts (Musée des Beaux Arts) in Brussels is truly magnificent and certainly worthy of several visits, especially when there are no crowds as there were today.  The Christmas holiday here in Europe extends until January 6th and the tourists are still out in force. Surprisingly there are a vast number of tourists from Spain, all on group tours since they always seem to be in clumps of dozens, just like the Chinese, who I think are angry there are some tourists who are louder and pushier than they.  The museum visit was a way to get out of the cold and damp that seems like the permanent grey shawls on aging grand dames. For some reason unknown to us, they still publish sunrise and sunset hours - this in a city that hasn’t seen sunshine for weeks so who can tell if they are telling us the truth?

When my sister and I were young we spent a summer with our grandmother in Long Beach Long Island. One time we went to a matinee with some kids we had met there and it started with a cartoon about the Sunshine People. We didn’t know at the time that it was produced by Borden’s Dairy, but we sure liked it and I am still singing the main song “We’re happy when we’re sad; we’re always feeling bad” whenever I see someone who is being a royal pain.  I should beam this to everyone in Belgium as a public service.  If you have a spare eight minutes, watch this oldie but goodie cartoon.  Got milk?

I’ve mentioned this before but the Belgique claim to have a cuisine that is far superior to the French and I say to that PHOOEY!  You can’t find a decent vegetable here that hasn’t been sliced, diced, minced or pureed and served in some stew, soup, or gravy. Their two most famous dishes are Carbonnades Flamandes, which is beef stew cooked in beer, and Waterzooi which is either fish or chicken cooked in some kind of cream, egg and butter sauce. Both are served with what we call French fries but which are known here as simply frites and are always served with mayonnaise, aka stroke in a bowl.  Here is a list and you tell me what you can’t live without. (Yes, the mussels are swell but at 25 euros a serving they are twice as expensive as those in Nice, which are also fabulous!) However, I have to admit that the cookies and the chocolate are fabulous, and this from a person who is not a big fan of chocolate.

Service continues to be a problem in Belgium.  Not sure if the unions require all employees to take a fifteen minute break every fifteen minutes, but that is what it feels like.  Never go to a restaurant in Belgium if you are hungry; you could starve!  I’m guessing that everyone here has a substantial snack before going out to dinner.  We have waited twenty minutes to get a menu and then another fifteen to order a drink before dinner.  Order the drink, not get the drink.  It is universal, top notch restaurants are as bad as middle of the road; just sit tight and hope to get food before sunrise, which of course no one knows the exact time.


Love from Brussels, Cindy and Wm

Tuesday, January 1, 2019

New Year's Day, 2019

It is always a good idea to find a little time to reflect on things on the first day of the New Year. Recently I’ve been thinking of the little things that I do when I travel that make a difference, at least to me, and I hope to others. Some readers have asked me what I can’t travel without, what makes me happy when traveling, and what ‘hints’ I have for others. So here are some of the things that I bring along to make my travel experience enjoyable.

What do I always take when traveling?

The most important thing is Cindy!  So, got that out of the way, here are the other things in no particular order:

  1. I have always traveled with a wrist watch that has the ability to show the time in two time zones and can be read at night. For the past twenty years it has been a Timex Expedition with a cloth band. This is an inexpensive watch, under fifty dollars, and lasts for about five years. I once tried to change the battery after it died but then the light didn’t work so I just order two or three at a time so I always have one. Nothing is more reassuring than waking up on a long flight in the middle of the night and touching a little button to know what time it is and how much longer you have to fly. 
  2. You should always have a very powerful flashlight in your carry-on bag. For me it is a Stealth Angel that can be adjusted to “pinpoint powerful” (enough to temporarily blind someone if shone in their eyes) to wide angle which will light any hotel room. I use this on almost all of my trips; in fact just today the lights went out and it was dark as sin, but with my flashlight I was able to find the circuit breaker and fix the situation. 
  3. Cash. I try to never use credit cards when traveling, relying instead on cash. There are places you will go that will not take credit cards and if they do you are never sure how much you will be charged for ‘courtesy fees,’ exchange service fees, or exchange rates. Nothing ruins a trip more than getting home and facing large credit card bills.  ATMs are everywhere and with a little prudence, they are quite safe. I’ve negotiated discounts on lots of things using cash and when the bill comes for lunch or dinner and then the waiter disappears, you can just put down cash and leave.  
  4. Walking shoes are a must for me since I walk everywhere. On a typical day I’ll walk six to ten miles and my feet need to stay supported and healthy. I carry two pair of shoes on my trips (not counting cruises where I also carry two pair of dancing shoes).  For years I have relied on Rockports for city walking, and ASICS for the serious morning and afternoon power walks. There are others that are great but these have proven themselves to be winners for me for the past thirty years.
  5. I always have a small backpack that packs into itself, weighs nothing and occupies very little space. I use it for shopping, day trips, excess baggage on the way home and sometimes as a pillow on flights. There are lots and lots of brands but don’t spend a lot of money since they all last about the same amount of time.
  6. For all the time that we have traveled together we both have carried an LL Bean small toilet kit.  Cindy’s is red, mine yellow and they last forever, carry everything you need for a month of more, and when dirty can be washed, either in the sink, or at home in the washing machine. These things are amazing, well organized and durable. Can’t imagine a trip without them.
  7. You should always have a packable rain coat that can be placed in your carry-on for emergencies, like RAIN, SNOW, SLEET. Ours packs into its own pouch, which when open has a large pocket. It has a hood with bill, very important, that is hidden when not needed and fits over most normal jackets and coats so that we can just use it by itself or as a protective layer in bad weather. 
  8. A hat - no, 2 hats.  In the winter, a wool cap and a wool Fedora; in summer a baseball cap (for the walks) and a straw Fedora. Nothing says, ‘made man’ than a snappy Fedora!
  9. And last, but by no means least, a Swiss Army Knife - with corkscrew, bien sûr!  No further explanation required other than to say that I check my luggage so that I can carry this knife; that is how important it is for me to have when I travel.  


So that is my short list of material things; later this week I’ll write about the really important things about people-to-people travel.  Happy New Year, Cindy and Wm


Wednesday, December 26, 2018

Boxing Day 2018

Christmas has come and gone and we are in the final countdown to the end of 2018, which for the most part has been swell, if you don’t count Cindy smashing her wrist and fracturing her foot! We are looking forward to a quiet New Year’s Eve and day here in Brussels where the weather has been particularly lovely, sunny but cold as you would expect for this time of year.

I’m not big on generalizing things about countries or the people that inhabit them, but I’ll do a broad brush for you on Belgium. The food is wonderful, every bit as good as France and in some cases better. The portions are enormous so you need to share lots of things or run the risk of not cleaning your plate, which seems to upset the Belgians. The service is really quite terrible at most restaurants. They are slow to take orders, the wait for food is very long (although they do deliver the food hot), they seldom if ever check to see if you need anything, and overall are just plain lackadaisical. The prices are horrible, the worst we have seen in Europe. Not sure why - perhaps because of labor and unions, perhaps taxation, perhaps they make more here and can charge more - whatever the reason, we don’t like it. Gone are the walks to find a place for lunch with two courses and wine for fourteen Euros as we do in Paris. Here a simple lunch of mussels and fries (mussels in Brussels is a must!) will set you back twenty-five euros with a glass of wine costing another five. We are fortunate to be staying with our daughter-in-law Meagan, whose lovely apartment is well equipped for me to cook and that suits us all quite well. 

Everyone knows Brugge (Bruges) in Belgium - and with good reason - but for our money, Ghent is the place to go. First of all it is a real city and not just a tourist town, and it also has some of the most beautiful architecture and canal system we have ever seen. Hours of walking are rewarded with stunning views of towering castles, cathedrals and old canal-side homes of the old wealth of Ghent. We spent three days in Brugge and two in Ghent and will go back to Ghent again, having said our final goodbye to Brugge.

Both Brugge and Ghent have fantastic Christmas Markets but here in Brussels there are at least three of them within walking distance and they are grand affairs. We have been wandering all of them and ended in a small one on Christmas Eve to have a glass of Champagne and watch all the families strolling about.  They close at six thirty in the evening on Christmas Eve and when I say close, I mean that at six thirty they turn off the lights to make sure everyone understands that it is time to go home. We did and we left!  We had a small Christmas Eve dinner of patés, cheeses, breads and fresh vegetables.  I sliced some potatoes and then browned them in butter and used them as small edible plates for spoonfuls of rillettes on some and smoked salmon on others. Quite lovely with the Champagne, Muscadet and Beaujolais that we had selected for our meal.

Tomorrow night Meagan has invited some of her friends that live in the building for dinner. I made a cassoulet a few days ago and have been letting it ‘develop’ so that by tomorrow when I heat it up and add the garlic/panko crumb crust to the top, it should be spectacular. I found some Cahors wine, which is a must for accompanying this dish so it will be as authentic an evening as I can make it.


Hope your holidays were bright and the New Year brings you joy.  Cindy and Wm
Christmas Luncheon

Birthday in Paris


Ah, Paris in the springtime.  Oops, it’s winter!  We knew it would be cool but the reality was about 10 degrees cooler than expected, with a lovely “breeze” to boot.  But we had lots of layers and managed to walk miles and miles each day all bundled up.  I had been dreaming of a birthday lunch at Le Train Bleu in the Gare de Lyon, a restaurant we have enjoyed several times over the years.  Our last visit was nearly 10 years ago so there was a bit of trepidation along the lines of “you can’t go home again” - would it be as good as we remembered?  A resounding OUI is the answer - everything about the experience was wonderful.  Well, except for the detours we managed to take on the cold walk there and back - but heck, maps are overrated.  

The restaurant itself is worth a visit with all the stunning murals on the walls and ceiling.  We had been told that it was recently sold to another family and we were thrilled to see that the old traditional trolleys, thick linens, heavy silver, and beautiful crystal glassware remain.  I wanted gigot d’agneau served from the trolley, and when the time came they rolled the classy cart over to our table and proceeded to carve a generous portion of rare delicious leg of lamb.  The scalloped potatoes on the side were fabulous too.  But I digress! - wait ‘til you read about the amuse-bouche and our first courses.  To get us started they brought us a tiny dish of smoked salmon purée with a bit of fresh fennel and a caper.  Cindy ordered the set menu and started with the ravioli with mushrooms, which was far fancier than it sounds - tiny little squares stuffed with cheese and served with whole porcini in a delicious cream broth.  

My first course looked like a stunning chocolate dessert but it was actually a delectable stack of duck liver, gizzards, gelée, and artichoke - words can’t quite describe it so please open the photo.  Afterwards I tucked into the lamb and Cindy had pike quenelles.  We finished with a cheese course and a small dessert selection called café gourmand which is rather normal (and better than wonderful) dessert in France that includes a cup of espresso with small rich desserts, in this case a chocolate pot de crême, a tiny lemon meringue tart, and a baby baba au rhum with more rum than you can imagine - it came in a little bitty plastic ball, to be squeezed onto the cake. And squeeze I did. 


The other diners seemed to be about half locals and half travelers on their way to catch a train.  The age range was interesting - families with very small children and older couples even older than us, with every age in between.  Everyone seemed to be having a very wonderful time, as were we.  Wow what a birthday!

Tuesday, December 11, 2018

Metamorphosis

Metamorphosis 

For most of my adult life those people that knew both my mother and me, always would say how much I looked like her.  Oh, you have your mother’s legs, hair, eyes, etc. I never minded it at all because my mother was a handsome woman with dancer’s legs, and if it was a choice between having my mother’s features or my father’s, I was pleased with the former.  But that was then and since my mid-sixties, I have steadily begun to metamorphose into my father. 

Gone is the sleek runner’s body, replaced with the fire hydrant look that was my father’s profile. While I still have hair, if you see me in a baseball cap and my green windbreaker, you would  swear that my dad was still with us. I find myself getting up in the morning and instead of jumping out of bed to seize the day, I stand there and do the ‘Pop checklist’ letting my brain see if everything is working and all the parts are in the right place.  I like to think that I’m combining the best of all possible worlds as I glide between parental characteristics.

Speaking of change, it is coming down to the wire as to whether we get out of here before a big snow.  While we were in Florida after the cruise, it snowed quite a bit here but by the time we got home it was all gone. Yesterday I mowed the lawn, mostly just to mulch all the leaves that had covered the yard, so at least the grass is ready for snow even if I’m not.  The forecast for the next two days is wonderful, if cold, so I’m off the hook on snow, unlike our friends in Greensboro, NC which has more than they could ever need.

Our Yellow Vests are packed and we are ready for our arrival in Paris on Thursday.  Hoping they’ll not tear gas Le Train Bleu on Saturday since we’ll be having a birthday luncheon there and I can’t think of a wine that pairs well with tear gas!


Bonne Chance et Joyeux Noël,  Cindy and Wm 
Our Love is Here to Stay

Saturday, December 1, 2018

Reality Hits

It is a cold, wet and miserable December 1st here in West Virginia. I have Cindy, a fire in the fireplace, and memories of a marvelous trip across the Atlantic to keep me warm and help me forget the reality of now. For twenty-one delicious days I didn’t make a bed, cook a meal, shop for food, do laundry (although Cindy did on the ship) or wash a dish; I had people!

We were very lucky with weather across the Atlantic on the Crystal Serenity. With the exception of the first two days when the seas were somewhat rough and high, the bulk of the seven-day crossing to St. Thomas was smooth, warm, and delightful. On the evening of the second night there was a classical pianist whom we had heard on the last cruise with Crystal. He is fantastic and we were looking forward to his concert. Despite the fact that they had sandbagged the legs of his grand piano to minimize motion, there were several times as he was playing that the piano would move away from him a few inches due to the rocking of the ship. He would stretch to keep his fingers on the keys and then the piano would roll back to him and he had to once more adjust, without missing a note. He was professional and funny in that he turned it into a game, much like Victor Borge would have done. We enjoyed it immensely (his playing, not the piano rolling around).

The journey was wonderful and we easily fell into a ‘schedule’ that included lots of exercise in the morning, followed by coffee and fruit and then more walking the decks. Cindy was fierce in her commitment to keep her PT schedule at least 3 times per day (the orthopedist was mightily impressed with her progress upon our return). If I reached my goal of 10,000 steps before noon, I would reward myself with a glass of Champagne before cleaning up and dressing for lunch. After lunch Cindy would attend art class - where she made all kinds of lovely tiles, cards and colorful envelopes - while I walked the deck.  We would meet for a nap at four, walk together at five, and then proceed to dress for cocktails at seven and dinner and eight-something. After dinner we would dance for a few hours - or longer if the Disco was jumping - and then sleep, wake up and repeat.

The food, wine and service were uniformly wonderful, with some highlights in their Italian and Asian specialty restaurants. We are not buffet people so most of the time we would eat lunch and dinner in the restaurant, which was always half empty for lunch since most of the guests seemed to enjoy eating at other venues. The first night we asked for a table for two and since most everyone was eating in the restaurant the first night, we were seated about six inches from another two-top, which was six inches from a third table for two on the window. The couple at the middle table just insisted on being chatty and introducing us to the others they had just met.  If it hadn’t been so absurd, I’m sure we would have found it horrible but we outlasted them all by lingering over Champagne before ordering and they finally disappeared. The next night I slipped the Maître d’ a few Sees Lollipops and told him of our plight with our new “friends” and mentioned we didn’t need any more of them - and from then on we were always seated at a table for four by the window with no one around us. (It didn’t hurt that we had contributed $200 to the Crew Morale Fund, something that seemed to pop up every time they checked our room number.)

We chose this cruise because it had a Big Band theme and they had a marvelous sixteen piece big band that played all of our favorites and had outstanding musicians, all of whom seemed to be genuinely happy to be there.  They also had a competitive Bridge theme and there were two hundred passengers who were deeply, deeply involved. We would see them in the morning lined up for coffee before the lectures and tournaments that began at ten.  We would see some of them at lunch, hunched over their sheets of whatever, talking about how to bid and things like that. Most evenings they would have more games or lectures, and oh my goodness how earnest they all seemed to be.  Give me dancing anytime!

Had a day in St. Thomas and we got off the ship just to walk on dry land for a bit and then right back to our routine.  The last two days were smooth sailing and we were soon off the ship and in a HUGE GMC Suburban (dubbed The Beast) that seemingly slept six, for the drive from Ft. Lauderdale to Punta Gorda where we stayed for two days and visited the kids for Thanksgiving. On the day after Thanksgiving we had lunch at a lovely country club in Sarasota courtesy of our dear friends Barbara and Rodney who also invited our friend, now their friend, Sharyn. We had all lived and worked in Europe, Barbara and Sharyn for the Department of Defense Dependents’ Schools and Cindy, Rodney and I with Boston University.  It was a delightful afternoon filled with great memories.  All too soon we mounted The Beast and headed to Tampa Airport where I spent the better part of twenty minutes filling it with gas!!

We are now getting organized for our next excursion to Europe, departing on the 12th and returning March 1st. I’m determined to avoid snow!


Best wishes, Cindy and Wm