The beaches of Nice are many and all of them have one thing in common: There is no sand, just small rounded rocks that have been deposited by the Var and other rivers. However, for the past two days, due to a combination of high tides and strong winds, all of these rocks have been deposited against the walls of the Promenade and all that is left is glorious, brown sand! It is truly amazing to see this and all the locals are taking off their shoes and walking on a real beach and leaving real foot prints in real sand. Very cool.
This morning as I was delicately dodging dog doo-doo enroute to the Promenade, I noticed that all of the little dispenser/receptacle canisters for plastic bags to collect and deposit dog waste have been removed. To the best of my knowledge, they were never used by the dog owners who are perfectly content to allow their animals to just use the sidewalk and move on. They have made great strides in Paris in keeping the sidewalks clean, but Nice I guess is just too laid back, another example of if you don’t enforce the rules, there are no rules.
Our son and his wife gave us a gift certificate for Champagne and Caviar at the bar of the
Le Negresco. I wrote to the gentleman that sent the certificate inquiring as to whether reservations were required and he wrote back that they weren’t, but if we could come at 6 pm the following Sunday, he would be pleased to meet us and show us around (his name is Adrien and he is the resident manager). We presented ourselves in the lobby - in the finest clothes we could muster since we had not planned on anything fancy - and the concierge called Adrien, who quickly appeared. He is a young mover and shaker who immediately impressed us with his warmth, wit and charm, not to mention his mastery of several languages. He showed us into the bar and pointed out all the historical items and then ushered us to a comfortable table. Removing the remaining bits of hay from my sweater that had gotten caught as I fell from the turnip truck, I asked if I needed to show my certificate to the waiter. Adrien gave us a charming smile and said, “Everyone knows why Monsieur and Madame Byxbee are here.” With that he left, asking us to have the barman call him when we were done so that he could give us a tour.
We then spent the best hour we have ever had in Nice. The Champagne, Taittinger Compte de Champagne White 2006, was ice-cold and served in monogrammed crystal flutes, and the caviar, Sturia Prestige Aquitaine, with creme fraîche and blinis, was presented with mother of pearl spoons on yet another monogrammed crystal tray. We were in heaven as we looked about the bar, which was more of a museum displaying lots of Napoleon’s caps and weapons as well as portraits of Louis XIV and his wife and mistresses. We reluctantly had to admit that we were done and Adrien came to collect us for the tour.
The hotel, founded in 1912, is not the oldest in town, but certainly the most recognized for its pink domes and museum quality artwork. We were shown the fabulous Baccarat 16,309 crystal chandelier which was commissioned by Czar Nicholas II, who could not take possession due to the nasty little October revolution in Russia. (By the way, 16,309 refers to the number of pieces comprising this magnificent fixture.) The rotunda is capped by a famous glass ceiling and the round walls display art works that are as varied as they are beautiful. We were given a tour of the Versailles Room, which is available for rent for private parties (in case you are interested). The ceiling of this room is all hand-painted angels, forests and rivers and was moved here panel by panel from a castle in Switzerland. There is a ten ton white marble fireplace that is twenty feet tall, ten feet wide and five feet deep. It was transported block by block from a castle in England. Well, you get the picture, it is one fancy room.
It was an evening to remember and we are most thankful to have had the opportunity for such an extravagant cocktail hour! Cindy and Wm
Below is the Bar and the Versailles Room