Saturday, November 7, 2015

La Jolla II

On Wednesday evening at six we attended a lovely concert at the library. It was a clarinet quartet called Luminosa and they were fantastic. Four pieces that I had never heard, which is not unusual, but Cindy had never heard them either so it was a double treat.  After the concert, we ambled over to dinner in the downtown area.

We had a remarkably interesting evening at a little wine bar called Finch’s.  We had been there before and were surprised that it was still open since so many of the other restaurants we enjoyed in the past have closed. We had already walked over to the place in the afternoon and talked a bit with the manager - as we read the menu we told him we would be back for dinner.

After being seated and looking at the menu we thought we would like a glass of bubbly but there didn’t seem to be any on the wine list.  We asked if the one wine we didn’t know from Argentina was sparkling, and the very young waiter said he would find out. The next thing we knew, two glasses of the bubbly were brought to the table, despite the fact that we really didn’t order them.  The manager then came over and said he would sell the Limoux Blanc de Blanc (the first sparkling wine in France) by the glass. I thought perhaps the first wines were on the house, since the Limoux is a much better wine, but something told me that wasn’t the case. In any event the Argentine wine was good and served very cold, so we enjoyed it as we read the menu further.

We ordered an appetizer to share to get started and Cindy wanted a glass of red wine so we looked at the weekly wine list and discovered that it was from the previous week. We asked the manager if there was a new one and were told that it was still at the printers.  Hmmm – this was Wednesday, well into the current week. The waiter then appeared with the first dish so Cindy asked for the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo that was featured on the only wine list we had. The waiter said that they were out of that but that they had a Merlot from Washington State that was very similar. Very similar????  The grapes are completely different and are grown seven thousand miles apart in climates that are very different.  Maybe the similarity was that they both began with the letter “M” –  ? -- in any case, we were shell shocked but realized that he was young and learning.  Cindy then asked for the other Italian red, Nero d’Avolo.  Now the kid was getting flustered and had to tell us he didn’t have any of the Italian wines on the very limited list, neither red nor white.

At this point flashing red lights started blinking in my brain. Something was very wrong here.  This wasn’t a diner, after all, this was a wine bar – but back came the manager telling us that those wines were great sellers and gone but he had some great California alternatives.  Not to be snobbish, but California wines are not to our liking and are usually far too alcoholic for our tastes. We asked if he had any Old World reds and he thought he might have a glass or two of a Rioja from Spain.  He came back with a glass and said that was the last of the Spanish wines.

The waiter came back and we ordered the duck salad, only to be told they didn’t have any duck because there is a national shortage of duck!!!  There is duck on menus all over town from the high end French to the Thai to the Chinese takeout. I can assure you that there is no national shortage of duck.  We ordered the Brussels sprouts with DUCK bacon. The food that they had was very good and well prepared but we got the impression that they were getting rid of inventory in preparation for closing down, like so many others in La Jolla.  We’ll check back before we leave next week to see if it is still open for business.

The weather this week has been similar to the child’s rhyme,

There once was a girl who had a little curl
right in the middle of her forehead.
And when she was good, she was very, very good,
but when she was bad she was horrid. 

Our first few days were hot, clear and wonderful, then came the rains. At first they were just showers that would sneak up on us while we were walking, forcing us to take shelter for the five minutes it would take for the squall to pass and the sun to reappear. Then on Tuesday, the weather turned horrid.  We were in a restaurant with some dear friends when all of a sudden there were brilliant flashes of lightening, followed quickly by booming thunder, high winds and heavy rain like you don’t see often in Southern California. This wasn’t a brief storm; it lasted for hours and hours and the streets became rivers.  We raced to our friends’ car and as soon as we got in the hail started, sounding like a troupe of Flamenco dancers on the roof.  We went to bed with the sound of heavy rain, wind and surf and the next morning, all was calm and bright and sunny.  We have now had three days of great weather, which allowed us to see the green flash at sunset twice in three days.

Best wishes, Cindy and Wm



Tuesday, November 3, 2015

La Jolla Part One

A man walks into a bar in La Jolla and orders a Dewar’s on the rocks.  The barmaid brings him the drink and says that will be $15 plus tax.  That’s the joke - and it was on me!  (That afternoon I had purchased a fifth of Dewar’s for $19 plus tax.)

Much has changed here since we last visited eighteen months ago.  No fewer than five restaurants we used to visit have closed; in addition to several more we’d never even tried. There are many empty storefronts where shops have failed - and the prices, WOW.  California has always been more expensive than most states and La Jolla more than most villages, but everything from toothpaste to Dewar’s costs about a third more than in the rest of the country. 

Having just spent a week in Italy where you could get a half-liter of good wine and a freshly made pasta dish for under ten bucks, prices here seem even more unreal.  We had a very modest dinner the other night at a mom and pop Italian place off the beaten path and the pastas started at $15 and a single glass of mediocre wine was $10.  So, I’m doing a whole lot more cooking here that I had anticipated, and like all good retirees we are taking more advantage of lunches and happy hours.

Having said all that, this is truly one of the most strikingly beautiful locations for a time-share that I can imagine.  Right now I’m looking out the window at the surf breaking a hundred yards away.  Surfer dudes and gals are always at the ready to catch the next big wave and there is an endless stream of walkers above the beach and tide pool explorers on the beach. We don’t have any sandy beaches here as they do in Pacific Beach, which means we don’t have any ticky-tacky boardwalks and bars offering supersized pastel cocktails.  We do have lovely sunsets and yesterday we saw the green flash and this morning a double rainbow. How do you put a price tag on that?

We continue to do a lot of walking which is so easy to do here since there is always something new to see at sea or in the air.  Today I watched as about twelve F-18G jet fighters departed from Miramar Air Station to join the carrier that had been deployed yesterday.  There was a large seaplane flying low and slow and doing practice turns and stalls, as well as the numerous small planes flying the coastline and the Marine helicopters on maneuvers.  At sea there was small support convoy that preceded the carrier and from time to time there are as many as forty little fishing boats following the schools.  Like I said, never a dull moment in La Jolla.

Best wishes, Cindy and Wm

PS: No jokes about drinking Dewar’s please.